Evolution of the Beach profile in response to storm incidence: Santo André beach, Portuguese Southwest coast.

Abstract

The study of storm events is essential to understand and predict the storm effects on beaches with implications for coastal management. The effect of the storm that occurred from 21st to 23rd October of 1999 on the Tróia-Sines embayed coast (TSEC) was analyzed in detail regarding the evolution of the Santo André beach profile. The wave climate was simulated using the SWAN wave model in a non-stationary mode, in the period from 20th to25th of October 1999. The results were compared with stationary runs and wave field data measured in the Sines wave rider buoy. The boundary conditions were defined by the Sines buoy records. The wind field was estimated with the Méso-NH mesoscale atmospheric model and the tide level was given by the Oregon State University Tidal Inversion model. The beach profile evolution was based on the data acquired during the pre- and post-storm field surveys (total of five surveys). The main stages of the Santo André beach profile evolution were described in view of the nearshore wave conditions and using the SBEACH model.